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Jan 22, 2026

With heavy hearts, we announce the passing of a true legend. When you find out who he is… it’s going to hit hard

With heavy hearts, we announce the passing of a true legend. When you find out who he is… it’s going to hit hard

The world has said goodbye to one of the great figures of modern adventure. Jim Whittaker, the first American to stand atop Mount Everest, has died at the age of 97.

He passed away peacefully at his home in Port Townsend, far from the spotlight that once followed him, in a life that remained grounded despite the history he helped shape.

His family shared a tribute that reflected the man he was—quiet, generous, and deeply connected to the natural world:

“Whether at home, in the mountains, or at sea, he sought to share adventure, joy, and optimism with those around him. His warmth, humility, and belief in the power of nature to bring people together left an enduring legacy of care for our planet and for one another.”

Born in Seattle, Whittaker discovered climbing early, often alongside his twin brother Lou. What began as a shared passion in the Pacific Northwest would eventually lead him to one of the most defining moments in American mountaineering history.

In 1963, just ten years after the first successful ascent of Everest, Whittaker reached the summit as part of an American expedition. The achievement carried significance far beyond the climb itself—it marked a turning point that helped ignite widespread interest in mountaineering across the United States.

Sen. Robert F. Kennedy poses with members of a National Geographic Society expedition that scaled 13,900 foot Mount Kennedy on the Alaska-Yukon border 3/24. The Canadian government recently named the mountain, highest unclimbed peak in North America, in honor of the late President John F. Kennedy. LTR: James Whittaker, first American to scale Mt. Everest; Kennedy; Dr. Bradford Washburn, Boston Museum of Science, expedition leader; and James Craig, a Canadian climber. In background is a Royal Canadian Air Force helicopter that supported the expedition.

Yet, for all the recognition that followed, fame never seemed to define him.

Instead, Whittaker focused on building something lasting. He played a key role in growing REI from a modest co-op into a nationally recognized outdoor retailer, helping make exploration more accessible to everyday people. Long before environmental protection became a global priority, he also advocated for preserving wild spaces, using his influence to support conservation efforts across the country.

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